Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Philips Norelco Qt4070 Turbo Vacuum Beard, Stubble and Moustach Trimmer Pro, Black/silver

Philips Norelco Qt4070 Turbo Vacuum Beard, Stubble and Moustach Trimmer Pro, Black/silver

Philips Norelco Qt4070 Turbo Vacuum Beard, Stubble and Moustach Trimmer Pro, Black/silver
Brand : Philips | Rate : | Price : $53.37
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Philips Norelco Qt4070 Turbo Vacuum Beard, Stubble and Moustach Trimmer Pro, Black/silver

Achieve perfectly even stubble with the philips norelco vacuum stubble and beard trimmer pro, the only stubble trimmer that does not make a mess while trimming. designed with a vacuum system to capture cut hair for convenience and cleanliness, this high performance trimmer with 18 length settings, special stubble comb and led display is able to trim perfectly to get the look you want.

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Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Philips HP6576/60 Satin Perfect Epilator, White/Purple

Philips HP6576/60 Satin Perfect Epilator, White/Purple
Brand : Philips | Rate : | Price : $84.49
Post Date : Apr 25, 2012 17:48:21 | Usually ships in 24 hours

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Satin perfect's extra wide head and textured ceramic discs remove more hair in one stroke, giving you the ultimate epilation experience! a built-in opti-light reveals even the finest hairs while the 2 speed setting gives you optimal speed control. enjoy cordless epilation for up to 40 minutes! don't you want long lasting smoothness for up to four weeks? smooth in minutes, lasts for weeks!

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Saturday, March 31, 2012

Revitalash Advanced Eyelash Conditioner, 0.118 Fluid Ounce

Revitalash Advanced Eyelash Conditioner, 0.118 Fluid Ounce

Revitalash Advanced Eyelash Conditioner, 0.118 Fluid Ounce
Brand : RevitaLash | Rate : | Price : $70.99
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Revitalash advanced eyelash conditioner is clinically tested and extrememly safe and effective.

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Disclaimer : This site/page does not included in any the parts with amazon.com but it is participant in the amazon services LLC associates program by advertising and linking to amazon.com , Certain content that appears on this site comes from amazon services LLC. This content is provided 'as is' and is subject to change or removal at any time.

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Monday, March 19, 2012

Thermal Spa 49135 Professional U/V Gel Light Nail Dryer

Thermal Spa 49135 Professional U/V Gel Light Nail Dryer

Thermal Spa 49135 Professional U/V Gel Light Nail Dryer
Brand : Thermal Spa | Rate : | Price : $56.95
Post Date : Mar 19, 2012 17:42:29 | Usually ships in 24 hours

Thermal Spa 49135 Professional U/V Gel Light Nail Dryer

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Thursday, February 16, 2012

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Sunday, February 5, 2012

M-D Building Products 64394 80-Foot Roof and Gutter Heating Cable

!±8±M-D Building Products 64394 80-Foot Roof and Gutter Heating Cable

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Wednesday, January 11, 2012

W51-100P Frostex 100 foot Gardian pre-assembled 5-watt per foot 120 volt waterproof heating cable. This can be used for pipes or roofs.

!±8±W51-100P Frostex 100 foot Gardian pre-assembled 5-watt per foot 120 volt waterproof heating cable. This can be used for pipes or roofs.

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Sunday, January 1, 2012

Part 3 - Chs 11-15 - The Awakening by Kate Chopin

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Monday, December 26, 2011

M-D Building Products 64501 100-Foot Roof and Gutter Heating Cable

!±8± M-D Building Products 64501 100-Foot Roof and Gutter Heating Cable

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Wednesday, December 21, 2011

MLS# T2392002 - 820 McCalister Ave, Sun City Center, Fl. 33573 $135900 2 Bed, 2 Bath

MARIBETH REEDER Mobile: (813) 546-5156 Office: (813) 634-5517 www.kjvideotours.comProperty Features Condo/Townhome/Row Home/Co-Op Status: Active County: Hillsborough County Subdivision: MANCHESTER IV CONDO Year Built: 1994 2 total bedroom(s) 2 total bath(s) 2 total full bath(s) Approximately 1444 sq. ft. Type: Condo Style: Contemporary Master bedroom Living room Dining room Kitchen Master bedroom is 14X15 Living room is 14X20 Dining room is 11X11 Kitchen is 10X09 2 car carport Central air conditioning Central heat Inclusions: Dishwasher, Disposal, Dryer, Hot Water Electric, Microwave, Oven, Range, Refrigerator, Washer Exterior construction: Block, Stucco, Slab Energy Info: Ceiling Fan(S) Roofing: Shingle Community laundry facilities Pets allowed Lot is 2400 sq. ft. Utilities present: Cable Connected, County Water, Electric, Sprinkler Recycled Parcel Access: Street Paved Call agent for details on association fee info. Interior Features Walk In Closet, Washer/Dryer Hookup, Breakfast Room Separate, Living/Dining Room Combo, Split Bedroom, Volume Ceilings, Shower No Tub, Carpet, Vinyl Exterior Features Gutters / Downspouts, Mature Landscaping, Patio/Porch Covered, Patio/Porch Screened, In County Community Features Association Recreat, Community Heated Pool, Community Pool, Fitness, Gated Community, Golf Community, HOA Required, Laundry Facility, Pets Permitted, Recreation Building, Security, Shuffleboard

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MLS# T2418230 - 1817 Granville Ln, Sun City Center, Fl. 33573, 2 Bed, 2 Bath, $145000

BARBARA GAINES My Goal Is Simple . . . to Help You Meet Yours! Mobile: (813) 523-1755 Toll Free: (800) 923-3245 BarbaraGaines@Century21Beggins.com www.kjvideotours.com Message from BARBARA GAINES Don't miss this buyers' market! You only know when the bottom has been hit when it's past and too late for the "hot" deals. Call me tollfree at 800-923-3245 for market stats for Sun City Center or to track new listings as soon as they hit the market.Property Features Single Family Property Status: Active County: Hillsborough County Subdivision: GREENBRIAR SUB PH 1 Year Built: 1985 2 total bedroom(s) 2 total bath(s) 2 total full bath(s) Approximately 1629 sq. ft. Type: Single Family Home Style: Ranch Master bedroom Living room Dining room Family room Kitchen Master bedroom is 14x14 Living room is 18x16 Dining room is 10x08 Family room is 19x10 Kitchen is 11x12 2 car garage Attached parking Parking features: Door Opener, Workshop Heating features: Fuel - Electric Central air conditioning Central heat Inclusions: Dishwasher, Disposal, Dryer, Hot Water Electric, Kitchen Reverse Osmosis Sys Exterior construction: Block, Stucco, Slab Energy Info: Ceiling Fan(S), Thermal Windows Roofing: Tile Community swimming pool(s) Approximate lot is 76.0X100.0 Lot is 7601 sq. ft. Approximately 0.17 acre(s) Lot size is less than 1/2 acre Utilities present: BB/HS Internet Available, Cable Connected, Public Utilities, Sprinkler Meter Call agent for details on association fee info. Interior Features ...

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Saturday, December 17, 2011

Danfoss 65 FT Roof and Gutter Deicing Cable

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Sunday, December 11, 2011

Colorado Seamless Gutters- Heated Leafproof 9News segment

Colorado Seamless Gutters was awarded a spot in the 9News "Hot Products Zone" at the 2009 Colorado Garden and Home show for their Heated Leafproof Gutter protection system and featured on 9News at 4:00 Please vist our website at www.coloradoseamlessgutters.com or email jeff@coloradoseamlessgutters.com for more information

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Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Danfoss 230 Ft Roof and Gutter Deicing Cable

!±8± Danfoss 230 Ft Roof and Gutter Deicing Cable

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Danfoss RX Cables provide the protection needed to prevent build-up from damaging buildings, roofs, and gutters. Danfoss RX constant watt cables ensure maximum energy efficiency and are designed for use with metal or asphalt roofing.

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Saturday, December 3, 2011

Home Buying 101 - A Checklist of Things to Look For When Purchasing a New Or Prebuilt Home

!±8± Home Buying 101 - A Checklist of Things to Look For When Purchasing a New Or Prebuilt Home

When considering purchasing a home, whether it's new construction or an existing property, a home inspection by a professional engineer, builder, architect, home inspector or other professional is always recommended. There are many areas of a home that are out of sight, but still critical, and a professional knows how to evaluate items like the electrical system, mechanical systems, roof, insulation, structure, water conditions and more. But, as the potential homeowner, here is a list of items that you can visually inspect or test for yourself in the early stages. It may be that some (many) items, in older homes, do not meet all these criteria, but you can then plan the cost of repair or replacement, if necessary, into your calculations. In new construction, things should be right before you move in. Prepare a punch list (a list of needed repairs) for the builder of items that needed to be fixed or corrected before you close and move in. My recommendation is to get repairs or corrections done before you close. Once your money is in someone else's hands, the incentive for them to do the work is significantly diminished.

Exterior:

Foundation - check for cracking, or settling gaps around windows and doors. Look for signs of erosion near downspouts or areas under roof runoff. Check during a rainstorm to be sure that the water does not run back towards the house and that there is no ponding (puddles) near your foundation.

Sprinkler System - If the yard has a sprinkler system, turn it on if possible and see that the sprinklers are working, that the water pressure appears adequate.

Walks & Driveways - Look to see that walks, steps, terraces, driveways and pavers are not cracked, uneven, do not retain water when it rains, and that they appear to be in good condition.

Grass - Check the grass for large dead spots or yellowing areas that could indicate problems if there is an underground septic field.

Siding - check to see that the outside walls are free of nicks and splits, that any holes through the outside for pipes or wires have been neatly closed with caulking, flashing or other sealing materials.

Windows & Doors - check that windows and doors appear to be in good condition and that they open and close smoothly. Understand whether the windows are single panes of glass (in older homes) or are a sealed two-pane system in newer homes. If the home has an insulated glass system, check to be sure that there is no moisture between the two panes, as this could indicate a broken seal. If the windows are a single pane, ask whether there are storm windows and screens for them. Windows in poor condition can cause significant air leakage into the house and can be expensive to replace, especially if they are not standard sizes.

Roofs - visually inspect the roof (from below) for missing shingles, ridge vents, apparent waviness, gutter conditions (are plants growing out of the gutters - a sign of lack of cleaning and maintenance).

Water & Sewers - Is the home hooked up to city water & sewer or does it have either a well and/or a septic field? 

Mechanical 

Hot water heater, furnace - ask for age, repair/maintenance records, warranties and just check appearance

Electrical - what amperage is the panel box? Will it need to be upgraded to meet your requirements? Is there cable already installed and internet wired throughout the house? What condition is the wiring in the walls? (Much of this requires a professional evaluation). But you can turn on and off all light switches to make sure they are working and try all electrical outlets.

Heating & Air Conditioning - Understand what kind of system the home has. Is it gas or oil? Is there an underground oil tank? If there is an underground tank, you want to be very sure that it is in good condition, as you could be responsible for major cleanup expenses if the tank has leaked into the ground. Are there radiators or a central hot air heating system with outlets in each room? Does the home have central air or are there units in each room? If there are units in each room, how old are they and will they need to be replaced? Turn on the heat and/or air conditioning (if applicable) and leave on for a while, check and make sure all radiators or vents are working.

Interior

Ceilings - Look up at the ceilings and look for signs of leaks from the roof or bathrooms above. Changes in color, the appearance of mildew or spotting or water stains can indicate a problem.

Basements - look for signs of water damage on the lower part of the walls: spotting, color changes, warping of any shelving or furniture at its base. This could indicate intermittent flooding. Check for a sump pump. Many areas have high water tables and ground water is well controlled through a sump pump

Faucets - turn on all the faucets and leave them running for a few minutes. This will test water pressure and flow. If you turn the hot on for a while, you can make the sure that the Hot Water Heater is providing at least some hot water.

Smoke Detectors - check to see that smoke detectors are installed throughout the house. They may be wired into a security system or battery operated. Make sure they are working!

Kitchen - look at cabinets, cabinet doors, faces, hinges. Check whether the cabinets appear level, whether the doors are cracked, stained, warped or otherwise damaged. Is the style one you can live with, or will you need to replace the cabinets? Check floor. If it is tile, check to see whether there is cracking, which could be signs of settling or inadequate preparation under the tile.

Appliances - check age (relates to energy efficiency in refrigerators, washers, dryers and others), general condition and appearance. Is the laundry room in a location that's acceptable for you?

Countertops - what is the material? All seams should be flush at joints. Check whether there is any wearing out, delaminating or warping of Formica type products and whether the seams are tight and clean on stone countertops. If there is a tile back splash, look at the grout. Certainly in new construction the grout should be very neat, all filled in, the tile faces should be clean, the corners should be smooth and straight.

Walls - in new construction the drywall should not be cracked anywhere, and paint should completely cover all surfaces.

Floors - bring a few marbles with you and put them down on the floors in various places. If they roll around, your floors are not level and you should know why. Old homes often settle and the unevenness may have been there for many, many years and there is no danger or structural problem, but an engineer or home inspector, as mentioned in the beginning of this article, is very important to confirm the cause. In a new home, marbles should not be rolling around and your floors should be level.


Home Buying 101 - A Checklist of Things to Look For When Purchasing a New Or Prebuilt Home

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Thursday, December 1, 2011

Part 3 - The Lost World by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (Chs 13-16)

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Friday, November 25, 2011

Designing Your Log Home: Tips To Keep You Out of Trouble

!±8± Designing Your Log Home: Tips To Keep You Out of Trouble

Nearly every log home is a custom design, whether you are altering a stock plan or starting from scratch. By their very nature, custom floor plans open up a large number of untested challenges - especially if you are trying to design the house yourself. With almost all log home manufacturers, an in-house architect will take your design and turn it into a set of drawings that conform to their building system. Your home will be structurally sound. However, don't necessary expect them to point out every inconvenience or snafu in your design. This is a hands-on business, and in the end, your house design is on you... and you'll have to live with it. Here are a few pointers I can suggest to make your design more efficient.

MECHANICALS: Open floor plans are the essence of the modern log home. They make a home feel larger, and keep the cook from feeling isolated. However, if you have a second floor you need to consider how you are going to get the plumbing, the electric and the ductwork (both supply and return) to the upstairs rooms. You won't be using the exterior walls for that, so you need to create enough interior walls downstairs to fit all the mechanicals. Each object in all likelihood will take its own space between the 2x4s. Even if you use radiant-floor heating, you'll need ductwork for the air conditioning. There are some systems that use high-pressure ductwork much smaller in diameter than conventional ducts, so there are other possibilities if you are pressed for space. But the best solution is to think ahead. If you're tempted to use an interior full-log wall (or none at all), you may be sacrificing an opportunity to get more ductwork upstairs.

PLUMBING: The wisest floor plans are the ones that try to keep the bathrooms together (either back-to-back or one directly above the other) and the shortest runs on the plumbing. This can't always be done, but when placing the upstairs bathroom, try to line it up with an interior downstairs wall. This way the plumbing doesn't have to snake all over the place.

CLOSETS: I would venture to guess that log homes are usually notoriously short on closet space. I know my home is. First of all, it would be a terrible waste to put a closet against an exterior log wall. Why hide your beautiful logs? And because we try to keep the square footage down to a minimum, it almost seems a crime to waste precious space on closets. However, there's more than one reason to include them. Not only do we seem to collect more stuff as we get older, but by law in several states the closet determines whether a room is a bedroom or an office. This could affect the resale (or refinancing) of your house. Here is a suggestion: put two closets side-by-side on the wall separating two rooms; the closets may not be huge, but it doesn't change the shape of the rooms. Try to include a coat closet near your front door.

WINDOWS: As I'm sure you've already read many times, you can't have too many windows in a log home. The wood sucks up the light like a sponge. If you have a large empty wall, the insertion of a window near the peak not only lets in more light, it adds character. Some people add windows along either side of a shed dormer. In my case, I had to move the roof line to increase the size of my bedroom window, because by code it needed to be 6' square for egress. In any upstairs bedroom you'll need your windows to be large enough to climb out in case of fire. Also remember that too many direct-set windows will decrease the amount of air flow to your upstairs. In my house I added an awning (a small hinged window) to the bottom of stationery windows in my dormers. This helped let air in, but even so the rooms can be stuffy. A ceiling fan helps, but ultimately I may need to add a skylight to create a draft.

KITCHEN VENT: One of the more difficult decisions we made concerned how to vent the range hood. If you don't want your stove to be on an exterior wall, you are going to have an interesting puzzle. Will you run the exhaust duct between the floor joists to the exterior? Will the run be so long you'll have to add another fan? I gave in and moved my stove to the exterior wall, but then we had to cut a hole in the logs for the vent. Horrors! How do you hide that? My builder built a little cedar box around the hole and we were lucky enough to have a porch roof underneath, so you can't see it from every direction. Still, this ugly vent is on the front of the house, and had I thought of it, I may have moved the kitchen to the back of the house.

CRAWL SPACE vs. BASEMENT: There are many reasons to opt for a crawl space rather than a basement - none of them particularly comfortable. Aside from the obvious disadvantages of a crawl space, there are a few things we didn't think of. I, in my blissful ignorance, didn't give any thought to the ugly electrical panel. Of course, I knew we'd have meters and a panel, but I didn't think of where they were going. What I didn't know was that by code, we couldn't put the panel in the crawl space. Since we don't have a garage, the electrical panel was installed in one of our rooms on the log wall. Isn't that lovely? Another disadvantage of the crawl space: you'll need a short water heater if that's where it is going, and you may need to purchase a horizontal-mount furnace. Because our water quality was poor, we had to install a purification system. This 54" unit must be mounted upright, and our crawl space is 48" tall. We had to punch a hole through the concrete floor to make room for the unit.

GUTTERS: Yes, you want to get the water away from your log home at all costs. There can be challenges; we have an alpine-style home with a vaulted ceiling. However, the roof comes to a deep V on the corners that create a magnificent rain chute. This is not necessarily wonderful when it dumps onto your deck! Because of the generous overhang that comes with a log home, the end of that V projects far from the walls and doesn't make a logical angle from which to hang a downspout. On one corner I satisfied myself with an old-fashioned rain barrel, and on the deck side we had to divert the water to the pergola we built against the house, and ran a gutter along the edge of the pergola.

OVERHANGS: You should have at least a 1' foot and preferably a 2' overhang to protect your logs. This overhang needs to be taken into consideration when designing your roof line. If you have overlapping angles, make sure you are not creating a water trap or a snow trap. There are times your overhang might bump into another angle of the roof. You may actually have to raise part of the roof a little to make clearance.

DOOR SWINGS: This can be one of the most annoying errors you can make and not catch until too late. Think of what your door is covering when opened all the way. Is it covering another doorway? Will two doors bang together? If you are in a tight space, will it open all the way at all? When we installed our bathroom vanity, we didn't think about the door swing until the plumbing was already hooked up. The door cleared the vanity by one whole inch; it could have been worse. You can compensate by swinging the other way (before it's already hung, or your hinges will be on the wrong side). Or, in the design phase you can use a narrower door. Or get a smaller vanity.

ELECTRICAL: The electrical and plumbing layout will not come from your log home architectural drawings. The manufacturer is not concerned about where you put your outlets. Once the plans are firmed up, the time will come for you to sit down with the electrician and mark exactly where you want your outlets, switches and light fixtures. Local code will determine the minimum distance between outlets, but anyone will tell you to put in more than you need; eventually you will probably use them anyway. Even if you don't need it, put your cable and telephone into every room; it's so much easier and cheaper to do it up front. Also remember, you can't ever have too many lights in a log home. Plan ahead for those fixtures - especially the ones in the ceiling. They will not be pretty to add later on.

DEAD SPACE: If you are building a huge log home, you've got so much space it doesn't really matter. But for most of the rest of us, every inch counts. There are some approaches that might maximize your floor space. First of all, do you really need hallways? Some space-saving designs arrange the rooms so they all open into a small hallway. I prefer none at all. Also, consider that every closet door creates dead space. If you can arrange your floor plan so that closet door swings into a place which is already dead (for instance, another closet door or a foyer), you might open up the room a bit. Does your loft serve a purpose or is it merely an open hallway from room to room? Can you put a piece of furniture on it? If not, perhaps it would serve to give it an angle and make your "open to below" space a little smaller.

Hopefully I've helped a little bit. I learned many of these tips the hard way, and I'm sure there are plenty more I haven't bumped into yet. After all, a custom home is one giant learning curve.


Designing Your Log Home: Tips To Keep You Out of Trouble

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Tuesday, November 15, 2011

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